Post by KenBelmont on Jul 23, 2014 6:32:03 GMT
Mastery and use of the whip
While its been said that the whip is a subjugation weapon used to inspire fear and awe it is also a well balanced offensive and defensive tool, it can be used to kill and to defend with. Despite the fact that I am the only whip master here I have concluded that give the right instruction and the right tool that any of you could wield a whip successfully and hold a monster at bay or even kill it.
Cracking the whip:
The crack of a whip is made when the tip exceeds the speed of sound. The tip is actually traveling faster than most pistol bullets. It can cut flesh or break bones, so safety is paramount. If you are using a whip outdoors it can pick up gravel or stones and send them flying as well. Whips need lots of room. Only use them in an area with enough clearance for the length of the whip plus the length of your arm in front, behind, to the sides, and above you.
If you are learning with a whip you will pick up a few welts. Wear sturdy clothing and a hat. Safety glasses are a must and are very inexpensive. You only get one set of eyes. Proper technique will reduce the minor injuries. A well-made whip will just about crack itself with very little effort on your part. Throw it easily and follow through. There is no need to force a whip as you would a towel or rope. At the end of the throw do not pull it back toward yourself like it was a towel. Let the whip do the work.
Get a good whip:
A good whip will run several hundred dollars. Do not settle for a poorly-made whip. A good whip is an absolute joy to use and, if cared for properly, will last a lifetime. A bad whip is almost impossible to get a good crack out of and will come apart after very little use.
A six foot length is about minimum for most tricks. Eight to ten feet is average. Anything over ten feet can be difficult to control and anything over twelve feet is near impossible to do fine work with although the one I have is a 12 feet and the mastery of it came from the blood flowing through my veins but I still had some practice.
Tending to your whip:
Do not use neet's foot or other light oils on your whips. Light oils will loosen the plaiting in short order. Bee's wax, sheep's kidney fat, or saddle soap will preserve the leather without loosening the plait. Only use your whip in grassy areas. Dirt and gravel will get into the braid and wear the whip out. Do not hit metal or sharp objects. Do not let your whip get wet. Moisture will loosen and damage leather and can cause mildew. And above all do not let your new puppy near the whip. Most animals think an expensive piece of leather is ideal for chewing.
Most poppers can be replaced by the owner. The popper should be replaced long before it wears down to the fall. A fall is more difficult to replace and you might want to return the whip to the maker for fall replacement. Any other repairs would best be handled by the whip maker. Whips are designed to be used and will take weeks of constant use just to get broken in.
With a little care your whip will probably outlast you.
Instruction:
It is best to have personal instruction to learn how to use a whip. By taking it slowly and carefully you can teach yourself. Most American performers use a grip similar to that used on a fishing pole. It is a relaxed grip with the thumb pointing up along the handle. To me this grip seems to give more control, however it does make it easier to try and force the whip.
Pick a method and stick to that one. If you have access to a large polished floor area like a gymnasium lay the whip flat and slowly and easily just move it back and forth. This lets you get a feel for the action and see how the whip works in slow motion. To get a good crack you want a very sharp "hairpin" curve to form in the whip. As the hairpin travels the length of the whip the taper in the thong causes it to speed up. When the popper finally travels around the curve it will break the sound barrier and crack. That is also the point where the whip is expending the most energy and where it will do the most damage.
When you throw the whip use a full arm motion like throwing a baseball and follow through toward your target. Do not pull back on the whip or try to snap it. The motion should be smooth and easy. The whip will do the work. Let the whip move at its own pace. A longer, heavier whip will take longer to reach the end of its motion. Trying to speed it up or force it means more work for you with less satisfying results. Practice and you will develop a feel for the rhythm your whip demands. Enough time spent just handling the whip will allow you to make it do whatever you want with very little effort.
Forward Crack:
The first trick is the forward crack. This trick is easiest with the shorter whips, and can be very difficult with the longer whips. It gives a loud crack. Hold the handle in your hand with the whip trailing on the ground straight out behind you. If it is wrapped behind you it might catch your leg as it goes by. Your thumb is pointing down to the ground with your hand hanging at your side. Swing your arm up (forwards) in a fast-paced, constant, fluid (not jerky) motion so the hand ends up above your shoulder, palm facing toward your ear beside your head, with the elbow pointing at your target. The speed should be enough so that the whip is fully extended throughout the upswing, not flopping or wiggling.
For these first practice runs let the whip just fall to the ground behind you (do not follow through yet). Practice this so that the whip flies firmly through the air. Do not jerk the whip up, swing it fluidly. Next try it with the full follow through. When the whip tip (popper) starts dropping down behind you, step forward with the opposite leg (left leg for right handed throwers) and throw the whip forward. Keep the thumb on top (palm towards ear) and snap the wrist like you are using a hammer or casting a fishing pole. Follow through to a target you have aimed at in the distance (this is important) like a tree or telephone pole. Do not pull the whip down at the end so that it crashes into the ground (most people do this in the beginning). Throw the whip out straight and finish with your arm pointing straight out to the target. The body of the whip will travel past your shoulder creating a loop in the whip. The loop is the essential part of the delivery. It is what makes the tip go pop. When you swing the whip up and cock your wrist at the top (next to your ear) the tip of the whip is starting to swing down and forward under your elbow. When you throw the whip forward, the tip continues forward (past your shoulder or hip) and creates the loop as described above.
This is why a good whip is so important. A cheap, lightweight whip will not have enough weight at the tip for this to happen. The tip will just follow the thong and not create the loop. The crack with this throw occurs fairly near the thrower so be careful.
Straight Throws:
Straight throws, whether overhand, underhand or sidearm, are the easiest to do with the longer whips. They are the most accurate for target work but do not make the loudest cracks. This is like the forward crack but done with a sidearm or underhand throw. Set up like with the forward crack (the whip is trailing behind you) but hold your hand and arm in a position as if you are "hitch-hiking a ride". Your palm is up and your thumb is on the near side of the handle pointing behind you. You will be pushing the whip forward with your thumb as if you are casting a fishing pole in a sidearm manner. In order to make the all-important loop, you must have as much of the whip up off the ground as possible (or it will droop below your arm). Think of this as if at the first moment of the throw, you are lifting the entire whip up off the ground. There is a little bit of a "lift up" with the hand at the first moment as you are throwing forward. It is not separate from the throw, it is part of it.
An easy throw without cracking the whip sets it up in the air for a powerful crack in the opposite direction. Eventually you will be able to crack it in any direction and then move from that crack to the next, keeping the whip in the air at all times.
Circle Crack:
The circle crack makes the loudest crack, however, it is tough on the whip. Timing is critical with this trick. The crack occurs right next to your head so it is probably the most dangerous trick as well. It is the only way to get a badly-made whip to crack.
Swing the whip in a circle over your head. Do not swing too fast, just enough so that the whip is airborne and straight. Have enough clearance on all sides! When the tip of the whip is behind you and a little to the right, (assuming you are right-handed) cease the circular motion, and instead bring you arm forward, as if casting a fishing line. Try to aim off to the right a little. As the whip starts coming forward, make sure you snap that wrist. Make sure you throw off to the side somewhat. This will make the whip miss your head, which is important.
Whip Cracks and other Tricks:
For wraps or cutting it is not necessary to get a good crack. The trick is to crack the whip past the target and then follow through with the wrap or cut.
Practice your cutting with newspaper hung on string or taped to a cardboard frame. Do not use anything that will damage the whip if you hit it accidentally. For practicing wraps, a nice smooth metal pole is ideal. Again, do not use anything sharp or abrasive. When you get a feel for your whip you can try grabbing smaller and smaller objects. Eventually you may be able to pull the caps off of bottles with it.
Wrapping a post or a neck is quite easy when in practice on wrapping a wooden post focus on the area where the head area is and strike once a wrap contact is made hold your ground and have a firm hold on the whip, pulling towards you, you should tension on it that will confirm solid contact. In real time combat your next move will be to yank forward until you hear a break sound depending on the angle of attack and size of the target the sound will be either soft and you see the break or it will be loud and crisp and it sound like a snap with a crinkle sound.
While its been said that the whip is a subjugation weapon used to inspire fear and awe it is also a well balanced offensive and defensive tool, it can be used to kill and to defend with. Despite the fact that I am the only whip master here I have concluded that give the right instruction and the right tool that any of you could wield a whip successfully and hold a monster at bay or even kill it.
Cracking the whip:
The crack of a whip is made when the tip exceeds the speed of sound. The tip is actually traveling faster than most pistol bullets. It can cut flesh or break bones, so safety is paramount. If you are using a whip outdoors it can pick up gravel or stones and send them flying as well. Whips need lots of room. Only use them in an area with enough clearance for the length of the whip plus the length of your arm in front, behind, to the sides, and above you.
If you are learning with a whip you will pick up a few welts. Wear sturdy clothing and a hat. Safety glasses are a must and are very inexpensive. You only get one set of eyes. Proper technique will reduce the minor injuries. A well-made whip will just about crack itself with very little effort on your part. Throw it easily and follow through. There is no need to force a whip as you would a towel or rope. At the end of the throw do not pull it back toward yourself like it was a towel. Let the whip do the work.
Get a good whip:
A good whip will run several hundred dollars. Do not settle for a poorly-made whip. A good whip is an absolute joy to use and, if cared for properly, will last a lifetime. A bad whip is almost impossible to get a good crack out of and will come apart after very little use.
A six foot length is about minimum for most tricks. Eight to ten feet is average. Anything over ten feet can be difficult to control and anything over twelve feet is near impossible to do fine work with although the one I have is a 12 feet and the mastery of it came from the blood flowing through my veins but I still had some practice.
Tending to your whip:
Do not use neet's foot or other light oils on your whips. Light oils will loosen the plaiting in short order. Bee's wax, sheep's kidney fat, or saddle soap will preserve the leather without loosening the plait. Only use your whip in grassy areas. Dirt and gravel will get into the braid and wear the whip out. Do not hit metal or sharp objects. Do not let your whip get wet. Moisture will loosen and damage leather and can cause mildew. And above all do not let your new puppy near the whip. Most animals think an expensive piece of leather is ideal for chewing.
Most poppers can be replaced by the owner. The popper should be replaced long before it wears down to the fall. A fall is more difficult to replace and you might want to return the whip to the maker for fall replacement. Any other repairs would best be handled by the whip maker. Whips are designed to be used and will take weeks of constant use just to get broken in.
With a little care your whip will probably outlast you.
Instruction:
It is best to have personal instruction to learn how to use a whip. By taking it slowly and carefully you can teach yourself. Most American performers use a grip similar to that used on a fishing pole. It is a relaxed grip with the thumb pointing up along the handle. To me this grip seems to give more control, however it does make it easier to try and force the whip.
Pick a method and stick to that one. If you have access to a large polished floor area like a gymnasium lay the whip flat and slowly and easily just move it back and forth. This lets you get a feel for the action and see how the whip works in slow motion. To get a good crack you want a very sharp "hairpin" curve to form in the whip. As the hairpin travels the length of the whip the taper in the thong causes it to speed up. When the popper finally travels around the curve it will break the sound barrier and crack. That is also the point where the whip is expending the most energy and where it will do the most damage.
When you throw the whip use a full arm motion like throwing a baseball and follow through toward your target. Do not pull back on the whip or try to snap it. The motion should be smooth and easy. The whip will do the work. Let the whip move at its own pace. A longer, heavier whip will take longer to reach the end of its motion. Trying to speed it up or force it means more work for you with less satisfying results. Practice and you will develop a feel for the rhythm your whip demands. Enough time spent just handling the whip will allow you to make it do whatever you want with very little effort.
Forward Crack:
The first trick is the forward crack. This trick is easiest with the shorter whips, and can be very difficult with the longer whips. It gives a loud crack. Hold the handle in your hand with the whip trailing on the ground straight out behind you. If it is wrapped behind you it might catch your leg as it goes by. Your thumb is pointing down to the ground with your hand hanging at your side. Swing your arm up (forwards) in a fast-paced, constant, fluid (not jerky) motion so the hand ends up above your shoulder, palm facing toward your ear beside your head, with the elbow pointing at your target. The speed should be enough so that the whip is fully extended throughout the upswing, not flopping or wiggling.
For these first practice runs let the whip just fall to the ground behind you (do not follow through yet). Practice this so that the whip flies firmly through the air. Do not jerk the whip up, swing it fluidly. Next try it with the full follow through. When the whip tip (popper) starts dropping down behind you, step forward with the opposite leg (left leg for right handed throwers) and throw the whip forward. Keep the thumb on top (palm towards ear) and snap the wrist like you are using a hammer or casting a fishing pole. Follow through to a target you have aimed at in the distance (this is important) like a tree or telephone pole. Do not pull the whip down at the end so that it crashes into the ground (most people do this in the beginning). Throw the whip out straight and finish with your arm pointing straight out to the target. The body of the whip will travel past your shoulder creating a loop in the whip. The loop is the essential part of the delivery. It is what makes the tip go pop. When you swing the whip up and cock your wrist at the top (next to your ear) the tip of the whip is starting to swing down and forward under your elbow. When you throw the whip forward, the tip continues forward (past your shoulder or hip) and creates the loop as described above.
This is why a good whip is so important. A cheap, lightweight whip will not have enough weight at the tip for this to happen. The tip will just follow the thong and not create the loop. The crack with this throw occurs fairly near the thrower so be careful.
Straight Throws:
Straight throws, whether overhand, underhand or sidearm, are the easiest to do with the longer whips. They are the most accurate for target work but do not make the loudest cracks. This is like the forward crack but done with a sidearm or underhand throw. Set up like with the forward crack (the whip is trailing behind you) but hold your hand and arm in a position as if you are "hitch-hiking a ride". Your palm is up and your thumb is on the near side of the handle pointing behind you. You will be pushing the whip forward with your thumb as if you are casting a fishing pole in a sidearm manner. In order to make the all-important loop, you must have as much of the whip up off the ground as possible (or it will droop below your arm). Think of this as if at the first moment of the throw, you are lifting the entire whip up off the ground. There is a little bit of a "lift up" with the hand at the first moment as you are throwing forward. It is not separate from the throw, it is part of it.
An easy throw without cracking the whip sets it up in the air for a powerful crack in the opposite direction. Eventually you will be able to crack it in any direction and then move from that crack to the next, keeping the whip in the air at all times.
Circle Crack:
The circle crack makes the loudest crack, however, it is tough on the whip. Timing is critical with this trick. The crack occurs right next to your head so it is probably the most dangerous trick as well. It is the only way to get a badly-made whip to crack.
Swing the whip in a circle over your head. Do not swing too fast, just enough so that the whip is airborne and straight. Have enough clearance on all sides! When the tip of the whip is behind you and a little to the right, (assuming you are right-handed) cease the circular motion, and instead bring you arm forward, as if casting a fishing line. Try to aim off to the right a little. As the whip starts coming forward, make sure you snap that wrist. Make sure you throw off to the side somewhat. This will make the whip miss your head, which is important.
Whip Cracks and other Tricks:
For wraps or cutting it is not necessary to get a good crack. The trick is to crack the whip past the target and then follow through with the wrap or cut.
Practice your cutting with newspaper hung on string or taped to a cardboard frame. Do not use anything that will damage the whip if you hit it accidentally. For practicing wraps, a nice smooth metal pole is ideal. Again, do not use anything sharp or abrasive. When you get a feel for your whip you can try grabbing smaller and smaller objects. Eventually you may be able to pull the caps off of bottles with it.
Wrapping a post or a neck is quite easy when in practice on wrapping a wooden post focus on the area where the head area is and strike once a wrap contact is made hold your ground and have a firm hold on the whip, pulling towards you, you should tension on it that will confirm solid contact. In real time combat your next move will be to yank forward until you hear a break sound depending on the angle of attack and size of the target the sound will be either soft and you see the break or it will be loud and crisp and it sound like a snap with a crinkle sound.